The Girl With The Hat: Windhoek

The Girl With The Hat is the latest installment of the blog loved by numerous adoring followers (3 and counting) that now sadly remains as neglected as the author was as a child. Pause your perusal of the author's clear cries for help and shitty cultural criticism from her early teens and enjoy her travel musings: the word on the street the world over from a third culture kid who copes with her existential loneliness and unease with the concept of home by wanting to explore the globe.

Windhoek (August 14th, 2016 - August 17th, 2016)

Upon learning that I would be traveling to Windhoek, I wondered "What the fuck is there to do in Windhoek?", a question I am hoping will generate traffic to this godforsaken page. If that description fits you, fear not, Windhoek-weary traveler - Zahra is here!

14th
I arrived in Windhoek on Sunday afternoon, and was greeted shortly afterwards by sort-of family friends; an aging, academic German couple. They took my father and I out for a sunset drive around the city (a must!) and dinner at Joe's Beer House (160 Nelson Mandela Ave). I know you've probably read the TripAdvisor reviews of the place, but I genuinely recommend this one! The beer is good and the lighting is poor - perfect for when you are tasked with enduring your family friend's laboured but oh so very important opinions on everything.

I don't know why men do that thing. Oh you know what I'm talking about. The thing. Actually I know exactly why; it's because men have been trained to be so confident in the expression of their thoughts that they are completely willing to listen to the sound of their own voices droning on for the duration of a dinner. That thing. I would call it a Ted Talk but listening to a Ted Talk is a voluntary action.

Anyways, Joe's menu is wonderfully Windhoekian in its combination of German and African influences. For example I had a delicious oryx schnitzel, which occupied me nicely while I was sending "please shut up already" brain waves to my dinner guest.

15th
I started the day by going to the Independence Museum (Independence Ave). The museum, which frighteningly does not have a fire escape and rather resembles an elaborate coffee grinder in appearance, would not be recommended if you actually want to learn something about Namibian history. It appears as if the curators were presented with a word count akin to Stalinist Russia rationing, for there is no information presented on the fascinating topics covered by the multiple levels of the museum. The only writing is found in the captions of photographs on display and as the headings of terrifyingly graphic paintings of violence that adorn the coffee grinder's walls.

I then moved onto the gardens outside Namibia's parliament, a short walk from the Independence Museum, which were gorgeous and lush and I definitely did not illegally pick flowers. I then walked down Robert Mugabe Avenue. Two wonderful spots on Uncle Bob Ave are the National Art Gallery of Namibia (corner of Robert Mugabe Ave and John Meinert Str) and the Franco-Namibian Cultural Center (118 Robert Mugabe Ave). The former had an excellent solo photographic exhibit of striking portraits by Kyle Weeks. The shop adjoining the gallery is well worth a visit, too! The gallery also hosts plenty of events, so be sure to check out their programme before your visit. There is gluhwein and artsy people at their events so why wouldn't you want to go? (I should note here that Namibian tap water, likely as a result of water restrictions, tastes like the piss of a horse fed on a diet of only asparagus so gluhwein is an inevitable option after exhausting beer, beer, and more beer.) The FNCC is a short distance from NAGN and is the Alliance Francaise equivalent in Windhoek. It also has a very cool gallery space, but I especially recommend the FNCC's restaurant La Bonne Table, which is so unkitschly French that one is tempted to say "merci beaucoup" to the waitstaff.

16th
On Tuesday I lunched at the Goethe Institut (5, Fidel Castro St) on "goulash mit Klöße" (Klöße being German potato dumplings), returned to the NAGN for some shopping, and then walked Independence Avenue. With the sun shining gloriously on my back, and a bowl of Cramer's (FNB Head Office, Independence Ave) ice cream in hand, I decided that I did like Windhoek. I liked it a lot, in fact. When I travel I divide cities I visit into three categories:

1) I could live here for maybe a couple of months. (A feeling I last felt with Shanghai.)
2) I wouldn't mind visiting here again. (Last felt with Hanoi.)
3) Baghdad cities: places people should only go to to blow themselves up. (I've thankfully never felt this way.)

Windhoek was a 2) after my discoveries over my short stay, and my time at the Craft Center (Old Breweries Building, Tal Street) solidified this. A lot of the stuff is very South African or rather generically African, but highlights were doll-versions of Herero women, gems at one of the places bordering the courtyard area, and the loose leaf tea and jams sold by the Craft Cafe, which I would definitely recommend for a bite. So those are my Windhoek recommendations - hopefully they will help someone out there.

See you in two years' time, blogging world. (Okay, maaaaaybe in December, when I have travelled to Berlin. Maybe.)

Love,
Zahra
 

lately

Devendra Banhart, At the Hop 
(which is runner up for the award of cutest song ever, second only to "We're Going To Be Friends" by The White Stripes)
It's finally summer! Another year is done and dusted, and I'm equal parts exhausted and excited. I kicked off the holidays by attending The World's Greatest Fashion Sale (gotta love hyperboles), where I bought a super cute gingham dress, and by thrifting for vintage Nat Geos with a friend (shout-out to the lady who runs the second-hand bookstore at 44 Stanley for pricing them so cheaply lol).
On Sunday I watched Free Angela and All Political Prisoners at the Bioscope - a fantastic retrospective doccie on Angela Davis' arrest and her subsequent trail.
Totally recommend it for any Black power movement enthusiasts out there! (And, you know, everyone else!)
This Thursday, I had the pleasure of seeing Dear Reader play a live set at the Play Station Theatre in Parkhurst, as part of her Blue Met Blue tour. She played some of her older work, in addition to songs off her stunning 2013 album Rivonia (though, disappointingly, she didn't play my personal favourite: "Teller of Truths"). As was expected, MacNeil, dressed in a wispy black dress and a pom pom headband, was her charismatic, playful, breathtakingly talented self. The encore of the evening (truly la pièce de résistance) was the phenomenal track "Left the Ground".

What was unexpected was the enchanting supporting act cherry-picked by Dear Reader: Frankie Beagle. I tend to remain pessimistic of supporting acts. In my eyes, they usually appear as some sad afterthought, a last-minute footnote to the main attraction. Frankie Beagle certainly opened my eyes.
Frankie Beagle, Sailor Song
Jo'burg based, the multi-instrumented duo's sound echoed Grouper's Dragging a Dead Deer Up a Hill - their songs having the similar message-in-a-bottle, long-distane-call feeling. Lyrically, they reminded one of Cat Power circa-Moon Pix, but with an underlying playfulness. Combined, these elements created an ethereal, other-worldly effect.

The front woman, Frankie, definitely added to the mysticism of the band. Enchanting in a dazzling sequin top, she makes one envious of women who exude seductiveness (no, too crude of a word - it is an Eartha Kitt-esque sultriness) as easily as everyone else breathes.

it's hard to have peace when you've lost all your heroes

Future of What, Back To The City
hi. currently fangirling about Frances Ha, the work of Pablo Neruda, and the impending Twin Peaks revival. but mostly just stressed from exams and also... tired, of expending so much vulnerability and effort and not getting anything in return. I don't think it's wrong for me to demand some in return. right?
 
Kentridge pin. attended a talk by him not long ago at Love Books, which I still catch myself thinking about / being inspired by.
shot this at dusk. you know when you see things and lyrics kind of float up to your head? "Our heads are just houses / without enough windows."
 (insert obligatory Twin Peaks reference)
Frances Ha (2013) on Vimeo. fuck. this film is my everything right now. after my friend watched it, he came up with the bestest bestest observation: "there's a little bit of Frances Ha in all of us."

love,
Zahra

and not float around this earth like a ghost

"How would you ask someone how his journey was?"

Hi. It's been a long time since we've last talked. A lot of things have happened since then - The Grand Budapest Hotel came out, and Lauren Beukes published a new book, and Beyoncé made everyone freak out that one time. [I say that with the nonchalance of someone who most definitely did freak out.]

I'm someone who will commit to a diary every new year, and abandon it by January 2nd, only to make periodical returns when something is happening in my life that is so overwhelming that I find no other way to deal with it than by writing about it. Thinking it out with words that I can't say aloud. (A lot like Sumire, from Murakami's Sputnik Sweetheart. Did I mention that I finally started reading Murakami?)

I think Blogger is a lot like a diary. One shouldn't stick to posting rituals, or entry rituals, because then you're serving it, not yourself. You should be able to return to both, guilt free, when you need to most. And that's what I'm doing.

I re-watched Richard Ayoade's The Double today and it was as perfect as it was the first time. Based upon Dostoevsky's short story of the same name, it is another cinematic masterpiece from Ayoade - featuring this glorious cobalt blue/burnt sienna palette and fantastic performances from Jesse Eisenberg and Mia Wasikowska.



As with Submarine, it's the deliberate little details of The Double that make you fall in love with it; the minuscule movements that make the characters comfortingly real - from Simon's tell-tale Adam's apple showing him swallowing his words, to Hannah's tucking of her hair behind her ear, to the above screenshot.



Go watch it if you haven't.

Love always,
Zahra